Shorten by HOW MUCH (or more help please on s2172)

I knew when I made up the skirt that I alterations would also be needed on the coat.
On the skirt I had to shorten it by 10inches, to keep the proportions correct I did 1inch off the yoke, 4inches off the main skirt body and 4inches off the pleated hem.

Now then the coat is so long 54 inches and I am so damn short that I have to shorten it to 41, even then this will be as long on me as it is in the pattern picture.

So my question is how do I shorten this by such a huge amount.
Do I,

• alter the paper pattern first and run the risk of the curved edges not matching up.
• make up one back half and front section in calico, then shorten it, take it apart and use that as my pattern.
• I can't think of any other methods.

I also think I may need to forgo the pocket as that may be too low down. I don't mind this.

As on my last post about this outfit, again I greatly appreceate all answers from you lovely sewing bloggers out there,
Many thanks in advance from a very mystifed Sew Vala. xx

Good morning, Taffeta Help please,

Morning everyone, How's your projects going this week?

For me exciting and unsure, Is there anyone out there who could help I am taking a bit of a leap in my abilities I know. But I figure if I dont stretch myself I am not going to learn new techniques. So this is where I am stuck.

I am making Simplicity 2172 just the skirt and coat. I have not made a skirt before so all is new and never worked with taffeta ether. I didn't realise when I bought the fabric it is exactly like the picture on the front.

So to my problem the pleated bottom section, they reaaly stand out and will not hang flat.

I basted and basted.
will they hang flat if the skirt is left to 'hang'?
Should I keep ironing them? Will heat from the iron spoil the fabric?
Should I sew small tucks to keep them in place? or will that just make them billow out in the middle?

I also could not iron the creases out of the fabric. I can iron them in when I first did the pleated section they were fine.

But after much handling around the sewing table they seem to gone gone wild.

Any and all help will be much appreachated , I now have 7 days left to make the coat and also a steam punk cape caot for Mr S as well as the final touched to the Nepeta outfit. So that we can attend expo in style, on Sat 29 Oct. Ok off to the cutting table am I.